Category Archives: food

GM – the more we hear, the less we like

“Waiter, will you serve me a dish of genetically modified food?”

I don’t see anyone clamouring to eat it.

Genetic modification. Such a mild-sounding term. A bit of modifying here, a bit there – what could be wrong with that?

A lot. Genetic modification is a radical departure from traditional plant breeding.

Genetic modification is about taking a gene from one species and placing it in the gene pool of another species.

And why, pray? To help feed the world, as the GM companies would have us believe?

Um, no. Commercially developed GM crops have been ‘modified’ to survive being sprayed by the GM companies’ pesticides.

GM makes spraying intensive farms easier – just spray the field and what is left standing is your genetically modified plant.

The GM companies claim that their new technology cuts down on pesticide use.

A recent report published in the US has found that growing GM plants is actually increasing pesticide use.

Meanwhile here in old Blighty, the UK’s venerable scientific institution, the Royal Society, wants to invest millions of our taxpayers’ money into researching GM.

Stop this madness! We need to be spending our money on researching systems that DO work, such as organic farming, to find out how to make them even better.

Money invested in low-tech research is pitiful compared to money sunk in magic-bullet technologies – set to make corporations even richer than they are because – here’s the rub, so listen carefully:

Once a corporation genetically modifies a seed, the corporation can patent it. It owns the seed. 

And if that GM seed should land accidentally in a farmer’s field (and seeds do travel, borne by bees, or wind) then the farmer has to pay the GM corporation a licensing fee – viz the terrible case foisted on the 70-year-old farmer, Percy Schmeiser, in Saskatchewan, in Canada. And, according to the Soil Association, hundreds like him…

This week we heard the Food Standards Agency wants another go at persuading the British public that GM is OK.

The Food Standards Agency. That’s the same outfit that published a  flawed report in August stating  the benefits of organic food are “insignificant”. As I thrive on fresh organic food, this  incensed me. My post on the FSA’s report got the most comments ever.

So anyway, as I was saying, the Food Standards Agency (FSA) wants another go at brainwashing the British public.

The FSA is calling it a “dialogue project”.

The way we use words, eh. Obviously ‘dialogue’ was deemed innacurate – suggesting a two-way give-and-receive exchange of views. Which it is not. It’s a project. A dialogue project.

So a steering group of academics has been assembled so consumers “can be helped to make informed choices about the food they eat.”

Only two out of the 11 members of the steering group are known to be critical of GM technology, according to the Telegraph.

In fact one of the members, Professor Bryan Wynne, signed a letter to the paper saying (I paraphrase) the dialogue project was a waste of money anyway.

I like the sound of Prof Wynne.

I remember the government-led public debate on GM, called GM Nation.

The more debaters heard about GM, the more anti-GM feeling grew: “soaring to 90%” said Geoffrey Lean in this week’s Telegraph. Back in 2003 he reported how “Many regarded the debate as “window dressing used to cover secret decisions to go ahead with GM crop development”.”

The more we hear, the less we like.

Evelyn Rose’s Luscious Lemon Cake

Luscious lemon cake

We had a bit of a crisis and it was all-hands-on-deck, as friends and family came on board to support my youngest daughter, Maude.

Yael and Maude made this cake as part of Maude’s rehab.

I provided the recipe from my 30-year-old copy of The Complete International Jewish Cookbook by the late and wonderful Evelyn Rose.

It’s a great cake to make. You mix everything together in one bowl and once baked, you prick holes in it then pour-in a homemade lemon syrup for tangy-taste heaven.

I used to bake this cake a lot for our West Country Childbirth Group cake stall in the 1980s until I overdosed, vowing I would never bake another fundraising cake again.

We were aiming to improve maternity services. In 1982 we invited the water-birth obstetrician, Michel Odent, to give a talk and over 1,000 turned up. This demonstrated parents’ wishes for a gentle birth and led, eventually, to the UK’s first birthing room in the Royal United Hospital, Bath.

So maybe all that cake baking was worth it.

Put in one bowl: 100g softened butter + 150g caster sugar + 150g self-raising flour + 4 Tbs milk + grated rind of one lemon + two large organic eggs.

I substituted the self-raising flour for plain and used an extra egg instead, on one occasion  – it worked well.

Line the bottom of an oiled loaf tin or 15cm square tin with oiled/greased greasproof paper. Evelyn Rose says this extra insulation from the greaseproof paper is important. So heed the cooking maven (Yiddish for expert).

Put the oven on Gas 4/350F/180C to heat up.

Beat all the ingredients in the bowl with a wooden spoon or electric beater, then turn the smooth mixture into the well-oiled baking tin.

Bake for 45 minutes.

Watch the animated movie, Flushed Away, while waiting, as Yael and Maude did.

Take the cake out of the oven and let it cool, still in its tin.

Now make the lemony syrup. Heat the 75g icing sugar with the juice of 2 large lemons (about 4 Tbs) until it gets all-syrupy.

Prick the cake’s surface with a fork then gently pour the syrup over it.

Once the cake is cold, turn out and dust with caster sugar. Share with friends.

Thank you, Yaelski.

Make more of vegetables

MAKING MORE OF SQUASHES MAKING MORE OF BEANS & PEAS

Two books I have co-authored launch this Saturday at The Udder Farm Shop.

Make More of Squash and Make More of Beans and Peas are the first two in a new series, Make More of Vegetables, published by Hothivebooks.

Fresh vegetables are the basis of real food, bringing vitality, health and taste.

Vegetables are good for us so how can we make more of them?

These two books will show you how.

First, the recipes cook the veg from scratch.

Queen of Italian cookery writer, (Nigella’s mentor) Anna del Conte, says of the recipes by local food enthusiast and recipe creator, Patricia Harbottle:

“The recipes in these books are a joy to read and an even bigger joy to eat.

I was particularly captivated by the section of one-pot dishes, which I love to cook –  the end result is delicious in its balance of flavours and perfect in its balance of nutrients.

Pat is a cook after my own heart!”

As well as cooking from scratch, the books show you how to grow from seed.

Correct me if I am wrong but few gardening books are aimed at the inadequate gardener, such as yours truly.

So when I teamed up with organic horticulturalist, Peter Chadwick, I made sure I asked all the right questions. Example: “What is a ‘module’?”

Peter answered ever-so-patiently, even my inner child could understand.

So if you work with children or have never grown a bean or squash from seed – try these books.

Ditto if you want to enjoy eating more veg.

Available at Amazon. 

Love and vegetable blessings, Elisabeth

PS I cooked Squash Mousse for pudding and it was delicious.

What are they doing to our bees?

Honey from local allotment bees

This pot of honey comes from bees in a hive on our nearby allotments.

I have never tasted honey like it.

It starts off honey-ish and sweet and ends with interesting tastes, almost floral.

Bees – like most of us – do not like pesticide-sprays that spoil their food. So they thrive in a chemical-free environment, such as organic farms.

As the largest British survey found, there is more wildlife on organic farms.

Yet this common-sense evidence is being ignored.

As you probably know, the honey bee is under threat from Colony Collapse Disorder, a mysterious disease which leaves hives deserted. Have the bees gone off to die? No one knows.

A lot of our food sources depend on insect/bee pollination so we mess with honey bees at our peril.

Research indicates that the industrial farming of bees is bad for bees: large-scale transportation of hives, pesticide-spraying and, possibly, genetic modification – at least in the US where GM plants are commercially-grown – is damaging the health of bees.

Now to make matters worse, I now hear, thanks to the Ecologist, that the very company, Syngenta, that manufactures the bee-killing pesticide is also breeding bees.

For some reason, this reminds me of pharmaceutical giant Astra Zeneca,which makes the breast cancer drug tamoxifen, ALSO produces pesticides, including organochlorine acetochlor, implicated in breast cancer. Astra Zeneca is a keen sponsor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

Can you get your head round this? Answers in the comments box gratefully received.

Beetroot and carrot soup

Beetroot and carrot soup

When I say I am a food writer, people assume I am a gourmet foodie, a superior being who will look down my refined nose at their offerings.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

The reality is I am an everyday, sloppy, how-quickly-can-I-eat-well cook.

My concerns lie not with how food looks, or how unusual or exotic its ingredients are but rather how healthy are they and how they were grown.

I want to demystify cooking not put it on an pedestal.

So this soup could indeed be my ‘signature’ dish. It’s comfort food made with locally and organically-grown vegetables, it took me about half-an-hour to make, is healthy and tasty.

I cut an onion and sweated their slices in olive oil in a medium-size saucepan with a lid on. I washed but did not peel the 2 large beetroots, ditto the 5-6 carrots. I chopped carrots and beetroot in inch-bites because the smaller you cut ’em, the quicker they cook.

I added the chopped veg to the softening onions, and added 3-4 mugfuls of water (one mugful=1/2 pint), and simmered it for 20 minutes, with the lid on.

I did not add salt. Both beetroot and carrot are so sweet, what other taste is needed?

I did add black pepper. And I whizzed it with my £20 handheld electric blender because I am a bit of a baby and like eating mushy-comfort food.

Escoffier, I ain’t.

So have no fear, past and future dinner hosts!

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Time to transition – now

French film crew for Transition film

Last Sunday, the doorbell rung. Turned out to be a French camera crew wanting to film the allotments from our flats. I was the only one in our block who had answered the buzzer.

“Entrez,” I said. It was a random meeting but I recognised fellow media-types.

When the director came into my flat, I noticed he had a copy of The Spark under his arm.

“Tiens, voila,” I said, and introduced myself as its guest editor for the summer 2009 issue.

I gave him a copy of The Source, explaining I was now its food editor. (Never one to hold back on networking opportunities, moi. Even on Sunday morning).

He laughed. “I have just been reading that.”

He said he had really liked our features on local food:

Rachel Fleming’s take on UK food security policy and my review of Local Food, the great new practical action book by Tamzin Pinkerton and Transition co-founder Rob Hopkins.

Guess what? It turned out Nils Aguilar, the director, and his cameraman, Jérôme Polidor, were filming a movie on Transition. People in France are asking: how shall we eat when the oil runs out? Industrial food production relies on oil-based chemical fertilisers and long-distance transport.

The film is to introduce la belle France to Transition, the vibrant international green movement.  Transition encourages practical grassroot local solutions NOW – rather than waiting for the proverbial sh*t to hit fan – and works with existing green groups to achieve it.

Fortuitously, I had just seen the movie In Transition, premiered by Sustainable Redland. I liked it because it shows an amazing range of sustainable projects for food, transport etc which are already up-and-running.

The director agreed: good to be positive.

I had seen The Age of Stupid the previous Sunday at Coed Hills festival in Wales. The human stories were heart-breaking but seemed to link more in my mind to the destruction caused by oil wars and pollution rather than climate change. I can connect them in my head but not in my heart.  (Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth woke many up but made me go to sleep – all those graphs).

Is it because – despite my green beliefs – I am in denial too?

What I am trying to say is my meagre grasp of the science does not affect my drive to save the planet.

It is common sense to save our precious non-renewable resources and reduce CO2 emissions to stop the ice caps melting – to search for another way of living.

To paraphrase a comment on George Monbiot’s post about climate change denial:

If you believe in climate change, you end up living in a just and caring world. If you don’t believe in climate change, it’s business as usual: exploitation, pollution, disease and oil wars.

Or as climate change campaigner George Marshall says: the facts are not enough to effect change. You need belief too.

Stop press: I just read a comment on the Transition blog from a woman in Wales whose spring is running dry for the first time in over a hundred years.

Climate change is not an intellectual debate.

Wake up. We need to wake up.

Coed Hills magic and more hemp

Wind turbine Coed Hills ++

What is it about living outdoors that feels so good?

Last weekend I was camping on a Welsh hill outside Cardiff.

End of September autumn solstice and time for a mini-festival at Coed Hills, the off-the-grid 20-strong arts community.

A fine excuse to live outdoors in a festive atmosphere with 200 other people with similar interests: music, healing, eco-education, meditation and other forms of consciousness-raising and eating delicious healthy mostly organic vegetarian food.

Coed meal after sauna

I went to some great talks including from BBC5.tv, saw The Age of Stupid, and gave two writing workshops myself, sitting in a yurt with talented students.

And followed the art trail in the 100-acre woods.

Indian summer autumn light but unseasonable climate-change warmth.

Being close to nature seems to open my heart. It hurts to take stock of our wasteful world.

But here at Coed Hills, people are living the dream, putting planet-saving sustainable ideas into action.

I loved the compost loos where poo is not flushed away to join our water supply but will go to feed the soil, and the willow reed beds that clean the site’s waste water.

Inspiringly, the site runs on sustainable energy including the wind turbine (see pic above) that presides over us.

Festivals are green networking cities – if not synchroni-cities.

Or just good timing.

Before leaving, I don my hat as hemp ambassadress and present a packet of Amaru Hempower porridge to the Coed community.

Richard, the cook from Lost Horizons, and Coed communard, says I must meet Derek.

Soon – in festival-chaos style – I am sitting next to Derek Bielby, hemp consultant, on a deckchair in front of an open fire between the wooden sauna and a teepee.

Hemp keeps crossing my path, first at Shambala and then at The Organic Food Festival.

Incredibly nutritious, hemp is also perfectly suited to the UK climate.

Fast-growing , it is ready for harvest after 100-days of growth – and good for the land.

Hemp is super-sustainable – growing hemp for paper gives four times the yield than trees, Derek told me.

It also has many uses including for eco-building, paper and textiles.

As Derek showed me:

The many uses of hemp

1. In the plastic bag on the left: the woody chips, or hurd.

2.The thing that looks like a round goat’s cheese? That, and the fibrous block it sits on, is hempcrete.

Forget the C02 criminal of the building world – use hempcrete instead.

3. Above are squares of hemp felt, a natural fibre. No more toxic fibres when you insulate a roof.

4. Next to the hemp felt, a ‘log’ of hemp waste for burning – this could be used to power the on-farm hemp-processing machine, or primary processor. Talk about sustainable.

5. ‘Woodchip’ made from hemp with a garden pot made of hemp. Plus boards of resin, also made from hemp. And swatches of hemp fabric.

I did not want to leave the magical world of Coed (pronounced coid, Welsh for wood ) where you live outdoors, treading the ground unmediated by cement,  and lit at night by fires and candlelight.

But I did.

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Hemp porridge and membrillo

Amaru hemp porridge with membrillo

Above pic represents synchronicity and sustainability  – and a comforting, tasty and easy-peasy way to get top nutrition. Just add water…

I also dolloped on membrillo – recipe below. It’s nice with something a bit sweet such as sultanas.

Synchronicity: I went to Shambala and got so turned on by hemp porridge, it became the subject of my last post.

Two weeks later, I am at The Organic Food Festival – the after-festival party to be precise at Berwick Lodge, Christopher Wicks’ new fab place – when I find myself talking to what turns out to be:

Rebekah Shaman, founder and director of Amaru Hemp.

Oooooh, I like Rebekah. Right from the start, she plunges me into different worlds with her words for instance about her time as The Shaman’s Last Apprentice in the Amazon.

She also gives me the lowdown on the nutritional powers of hemp:

  • 19% protein (meat is 30%)
  • easily absorbed globular protein (must find out what globular means)
  • every known omega, with omega 3 and 6 ideally balanced
  • every known amino acid
  • every known essential fatty acid.

One conversation leads to another and soon we realise we were linked in a myriad of different ways, culturally, socially etc.

I am taking this seriously (in an excited way): Amaru organic Hempower and me may have some work to do together in the future. Watch this space.

As for The Organic Food Festival 2009 – wow. Hot brilliant sunshine, old friends, new friends, people trading in a wholesome, future-proof, sustainable ventures – no wonder the atmosphere was elated and connections were buzzing.

I was on The Source stall with my darling editor, Dr Rachel Fleming. We shared it with the renewable energy specialists, Kaieteur, and organic soap makers, Flo and Us, both from Sidmouth.

Also sharing our marquee was James Bond (yes, that is his name) of the Avon Organic Group – his organic damsons were a talking/ tasting point for the crowds.

James Bond, Avon Organic Group at The Source stall

James gave me some beautiful quince, and this week I made membrillo for the first time, with a recipe from the Avon Organic Group. Here it is (+ my comments).

1. Quarter quince, leaving core, skin, pips intact. Add just enough water for quince to float. Simmer 1 hour or more, or until it reduces to a smooth pulp.

2. Sieve to remove pips and skin.

I am afraid I got fed up of unsatisfactory sieving (and it was midnight when I started). So I blended the whole lot, skin, pips and all. As a result it did not have that pale pink translucency of traditional membrillo – but it packed more of a nutritional punch and tasted richer and denser. (And was less fiddly).

Making membrillo 1

3. Add sugar to equal weight of sieved pulp, or at least 3/4 of weight.

Not being a sugar-freak, I used 1lb 6oz rapadura sugar to 1lb 12oz of fruit. Apologies for imperial measures – this often happens when I cook.

4. Simmer for 1-2 hours or until it has reduced to a thick pulp and darkened considerably. Stir to avoid sticking.

I stirred non-stop for 1 hour, getting spattered with boiling jam when I stopped. Wear an apron!

Making membrillo 2

5. Pour into greased or non-stick baking pan to a depth of 1-1.5 inches.

6. Bake in a low oven (140c) for about 1 hour.

7. It should set to a firm paste. Cool and cut into bite-sized squares.

Mine set to a kind of thick jam.

And it goes really well with hemp porridge.

Stop press: Amaru co-director Carlo Dawson agrees to take Brixton Transition Town pound.

HemPower pic 448 X 336

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Hemp porridge knowledge

Hemp porridge and The Source (small)

I went to Shambala festival and got turned on by hemp. Every morning I would emerge from my tent to tramp across a field for hemp porridge breakfast.

Its creator, Eddie Callen, told me how he makes it: mixes it 50/50 with oats, by grinding 1/4 of the oats with all the hemp seeds, from Yorkshire Hemp. Once emulsified with the seed oil, the rest of the oats grind-in easily. Then water, hot or cold, to make the porridge, and a host of sprinkles: nuts, goji berries, agave syrup, cranberries, for taste and nutrition.

(I used pecan nuts and sultanas for my hemp breakfast back-home, see pic above).

A fount of hemp-knowledge, Eddie told me how hemp can grow abundantly in the UK without pesticides and fertilisers.

Hemp plants are so productive too: omega 3-rich seeds, and textiles, rope and paper. More sustainable than paper from trees – and cheaper.

We want hemp! ‘Tis the the earth’s most sustainable material.

Although hemp belongs to the same plant family as cannabis it has NONE of its mind-altering properties. It got a bad rap all the same and got outlawed in the 1930s but now it’s legal to grow although most UK hemp ends up as animal bedding.

Hemp-evangelist Eddie Callen was cheffing for the Community Medical Herbalists.

I had gone to see one, John E. Smith, for some remedies and it was he had told me about Eddie’s hemp-prowess.

Festivals are like that – it’s green networking city. I bumped into colleagues, past and present, as well as the legendary Simon Fairlie, editor of The Land. Its summer issue focuses on the  enclosures of Britain’s commons – historical events I have long been fascinated by as I see the roots of our present-day ills in the past.

People’s right to grow food or forage was taken away by force or legal stealth from approx from 1300s to end-18th century. Just as indigeneous people are deprived of their land today.

O I am in the mood for digression. Last night I saw Winstanley, an amazing film. Set in 1647, shot in black and white, British weather featured strongly, with only a camp fire and thatched tents to protect the Diggers from the incessant dripping rain. (As a recent camper, I identified).

Gerrard Winstanley wrote: the earth was “a Common Treasury for all”. He tried to reclaim the top of a hill in Surrey with his fellow Diggers but was beaten by the establishment.

I read about Gerrard (am on first name-terms as he is new hero) in the Land and talking about magazines, note my pic above and the latest issue of The Source.

I am SO proud to be writing for The Source, the southwest’s great green magazine.

In this issue, The Source reviews the new Transition book, Local Food, and asks:

What will we eat when the oil runs out?

The answer is green, local, organic, healthy food…and hey – this means the freshest tastes too. Talk about win-win-win-win solutions.

The Source also carries the programme for The Organic Food Festival, taking place THIS weekend in Bristol.

Organic is farming for a green future.

I am with the Shambala witches on this one.

Da witches have no Plan B (2)

GM feeds world? Don’t fall for spin

marrowman

Did you see yesterday’s print supplement to the Guardian?

Titled Agriculture, produced by the Lyonsdown media group, it was basically a huge advert for intensive farming.

Including promoting the use of GM crops in Africa.

Warning!  Spin-alert!

Don’t fall for the propaganda even if (especially if!) it comes with an ever-so-liberal paper such as the Guardian.

It is blatantly calculated to appeal to caring Guardian-reader types.

What makes me so cross is the way Africa is used in the sales talk.

Let us get one thing straight.

There is NO GM crop being grown commercially that improves yield. The only ones being grown are designed to make intensive farming tidier.

Currently, GM plants are engineered to be resistent to pesticide-spraying.  This means when a farm sprays the field, the GM crops won’t die.

How this is supposed to help a farmer in Africa?

All it does is increase dependency on agrichemical companies. The farmers have to buy the GM seed (which cannot be saved) AND the pesticides to go with it AND the licence to use it all.

One of the authors is Professor Derek Burke known as the godfather of biotech.

He writes how organic farmers are a “wealthy lobby group” preventing GM progress.

– see pic above for evidence of  “wealthy lobby group”.

So, according to the professor, a section representing 2% 0f the UK food industry, and made up of mainly small family farms, is the only thing holding back GM world domination?

No mention of the European public which does not want GM.

No mention of the African farmers who do not want GM.

And strangely, no mention of the marketing budget of  agrichemical corporations such as Monsanto and Bayer which are aggressively pushing their risky, unproven GM technology.

I wonder what the marketing-spend is on a supplement such as the one in the Guardian?

I can’t imagine a GM company is short of a bob or two for its PR war.